Saturday, November 6, 2010

May 13 Schnee in May

And, then came the schnee. We woke up after a fairly sleepless night (track hack extending - me wanting to blame it on the hotel guest down the hall who was smoking....but knowing the achy feeling with it probably meant the flu...). We looked across from our hotel balcony to see snow/rain mix falling. We decided that riding over some of the high passes in snow wasn't the best plan.

So, after breakfast marinated in orange juice (Rick used the stemmed glass to douse the entire table when we sat down, which sent the inn keeper into fits of laughter), we headed across the street to the train station. We caught the 9:30 train to Frieburg. As we moved through the Black Forest, the snow got heavier, and it started accumulating several inches. But, by the time we got down to Freiburg, it was just sleeting.

We bought tickets in Freiburg to get our bikes to Eglisau - which we thought was the closest German town to Zurich, where we planned to hang out for a couple days. We had a nice chat with an Australian couple who was touring the Danube for six weeks. We had to ride to Schaufhausen, and we thought the Schwartzwald train pass would get us there, but alas, we had to pay 18 Euros more to get there. Then, we hopped a light rail train to Eglisau. When we got off, we realized we were in Switzerland - not Germany. We crossed the Rhine, but were still in Switzerland, and the only hotel we found open was 288 Euros per night - a little rich for our tastes. So, we begrudgingly rode in the freezing rain to the nearest German town - me starting to feel significantly worse. The town was Hohetengen, about 7 miles from Eglisau, and quite painful when feeling ill, with a full bladder, an empty stomach and freezing rain falling. But, we were able to find a family home with a room for 50 Euros. They had a bath (yay!).

We rested and warmed up before dinner. We found a restaurant across the street and loaded up on Spargeltoast, pommes frites, salad and wine. Spargeltoast is  a must-try if you are ever in the Black Forest. It is buttered, toasted bread with spears of white asparagus wrapped in black-forest ham and doused with melty cheese and hollandaise sauce.  It was a decadent meal, and a nice end to a somewhat miserable day.

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